I don’t know about you, but I’m getting quite antsy to travel again. I haven’t left Michigan since October 2019 when I visited my daughter, Janelle, in California for her 30th birthday. That was a great visit and trip; much fun was had by all! I miss Janelle dearly, and I’m sure sunny California will be one of the very first places I visit when non-essential travel opens back up. Oh, I can’t wait!
In the meanwhile, I’m going to pull out some travel inspiration and share with you pictures from my travels to Ireland. We are right on the cusp of St. Patrick’s Day after all, so the timing is right. ♣
I’ve written in previous posts of my travels with the Rick Steves’ EUROPE tour company. Rick Steves is the ultimate European travel guru who shows people how to explore Europe via his travel guide books, podcasts, DVDs, and TV shows on PBS. Our library has his books and DVDs on our shelves, just waiting for you to check them out.
Steves’ travel company leads tours through all of Europe, and I’ve been lucky enough to be part of five of them to date: Greece, Sicily, Ireland, France, and Scotland. While each of these countries and the tours I traveled on were amazing, Ireland is my favorite. And I’d like to share it now with you.
In August of 2013 I ventured to Ireland with my daughter, Laura. She won this trip from Rick Steves for submitting the best online "scrapbook" of 2011 showcasing our previous tour to Sicily. When she chose Ireland as her destination, I was very excited to sign on and go along for the fun!
As this was our third tour together, we've learned to go a few days early, allowing us time to acclimate to the time zone difference and be ready to go when the tour itself starts. Check out my blog post of January 25 to read some of the things we did to keep busy before the actual tour started, including visiting St. Patrick’s Cathedral.
DAY 1 As with all Rick Steves’ tours, we gathered for the first time in the afternoon for a group meeting to kick things off. Then, we were off on an orientation walking tour of the heart of Dublin, followed by our first group dinner. It was a chance to meet-and-greet our fellow tour members and our guide, Stephen.
Tour Itinerary
DAY 2 We spent the day exploring Dublin and its history. We walked to Trinity College, where we waited our turn in line to see the Book of Kells, a rare artifact created by scholarly Irish monks 1200 years ago. Alas, no pictures allowed. But check out the cool, Harry Potter-like library.
Day 3 On our way out of Dublin, we stopped at the Kilmainham Gaol, a historic prison that now serves as an important museum. In operation from 1796 to 1924, it housed ordinary prisoners as well as many Irish rebels who fought for freedom for their country from Britain.
Our first stop after leaving Dublin, was the Rock of Cashel, an ancient fortress and home to some pretty spectacular views of the surrounding countryside.
In the afternoon, we arrived at our destination, Kinsale, a historic port and fishing town in County Cork, which also has significant military history.
DAY 4 After breakfast, we went on a walking tour of Kinsale with a local guide who told us all about his hometown. Kinsale is a beautiful town with many cute, colorful buildings. Ireland holds an annual contest known as Tidy Towns, which encourages communities to improve their local environment and make their area a better place to live, work, and visit. Kinsale won the top award in 1986 and strives to win again each year, keeping its town neat and tidy at all times.
We toured Charles Fort, a star-shaped military fortress that has stood firm since the seventeenth century. Its ramparts overlook Kinsale Harbor and offer a great view of the water.
After our visit to the fort, we made our way down the Scilly Trail, a trail that took us on a 45-minute walk back into town. It was a bit of a hike, but the wonderful views of the harbor made the extra effort worth it.
DAY 5 Leaving Kinsale in the morning, we passed through Kenmare, another cute town perennially in the running for the top Tidy Town. We were on our own for lunch and had enough time to take plenty of pictures of this charming burg.
Back on the road, we stopped at the Kissane Sheep Farm. A working sheep farm, we saw a demonstration of sheepdogs rounding up the sheep as well as sheep shearing.
Before and after!
Just past the sheep farm, we passed into and stopped at the Killarney National Park. At the foot of the McGillycuddy’s Reeks, the highest mountain range in Ireland, nestle the lakes of Killarney and the 26,000-acre National Park. As described by their website, “The distinctive combination of mountains, lakes, woods, and waterfalls under ever changing skies gives the area a special scenic beauty.” It was beautiful indeed, and there was much to see, but we only had time for a short visit/photo opportunity.
After the National Park, we headed to Dingle, which would be our home-base for the next three days. On two-week Rick Steves’ tours, they always build a day off into the middle of the trip. This day off, a vacation-within-a-vacation will you, gives everyone some down time and a chance to recharge their battery before the second week of a tour. Dingle was our place to recharge our batteries and quite frankly, I could have stayed forever in this lovely, friendly little town by the sea.
Dingle is located on the southwest coast of the Dingle Peninsula. To drive around the Dingle Peninsula is to travel some of the most beautiful, lush, green areas of the world. And the views of the North Atlantic Ocean are everywhere and amazing.
Dingle feels so traditionally Irish because it’s part of a Gaeltacht, a region where the government subsidizes the survival of the Irish language and culture. In Dingle, I heard locals speaking Gaelic. They also speak English, of course, but one must listen carefully to catch what they say.
I always look for the local Leabharlann. 😊
Our group was divided in half and split between two B&B’s right next door to each other. Two brothers, together with their wives, owned and operated the B&B's, one couple in charge of each home. Very gracious, kind hosts. The accommodations were lovely and the food delicious! Bread pudding for breakfast? Sign me up!
DAY 6 After our first amazing breakfast in Dingle, we got on our bus and drove around the Dingle Peninsula. I don’t really have any more words to tell you how gorgeous this area is, so let’s just go right to the pictures. 😊
One of our stops was at the Great Blasket Center, a museum that celebrates the history of the Blasket Islands, a group of islands off the tip of the peninsula. Although people lived on these island for centuries, beginning around 1597, it reached its peak population of 176 in 1916. When the population dropped to 22 in 1953, the decision was made to abandon living on the islands. Of note, many of those who left immigrated to Boston and Springfield, MA.
The largest of the islands across the water.
Inside the Blasket Museum.
Stained glass display that depicts Island life in an abstract way.
We visited the Gallarus Oratory, the best preserved early Christian church in Ireland, built between the seventh and eighth centuries.
Our last stop was the ruins of the 12th century church, Kilmalkedar and its graveyard.
Back in Dingle, we paid a short visit to a local shop where they still hand-cut crystal, a skill seldom practiced in Ireland any more. Master cutter and owner of the shop, Sean Daly, was on hand to give us a crystal cutting demonstration.
DAY 7 Our day off in Dingle. We slept in a bit and ate a more leisurely breakfast. We decided to spend the day walking about the small town, poking in nooks and crannies, and doing some gift shopping for folks back home.
Nooks and crannies and the Chapel of the Sacred Heart featuring Harry Clarke stained glass.
We made time for an ice cream break at Murphy’s because we heard it was delicious. Made locally using milk from Kerry cows and all-natural ingredients, it did not disappoint.
Dinner at Out of the Blue, said to be the best restaurant in Ireland. Fun and funky on the outside, delicious fish served inside.
We finished the day at a small concert at the Dingle Music Shop. Fiddle, violin, guitar playing with Irish dancing and singing. Lots of fun!
*If you’d like to read more about Dingle, here’s a link to an informative article on the Rick Steves website that will give you some added insight:
DAY 8
Heading out of Dingle, we made our made to the beautiful Cliffs of Moher. Yes, it was rainy, cold, and windy. But we didn’t let any of that stop us from enjoying the magnificence of the Cliffs. Breathtaking!
Not too far from the Cliffs, is a geopark known as the Burren. This area is known for its huge formations of limestone, formed millions of years ago. It kind of looks like the moon, stark and barren. Yet, look closely and you’ll see it has many flowers and plants that have taken root on its surface. A very interesting and unexpected sight in a country known for its lush, green countryside.
On to Galway. We spent two nights in this city, using it mostly as a gateway to all the nearby attractions we visited.
DAY 9 Today we took the ferry to Inishmore, the largest of the Aran Islands. Upon our arrival, we made the trek to the top of Dun Aonghasa, a prehistoric hill fort. The climb was a bit treacherous, especially for me, but the view from the top made it all worthwhile.
We explored the rest of the island on a bus tour, had seafood chowder for lunch at Joe Watty’s, and went shopping at the Aran Sweater Market.
DAY 10 What a great day! We headed toward the lovely town of Cong where we made a surprise visit to Ashford Castle and had a chance to practice the art of falconry at their School of Falconry. Prior to this day, I had never thought of doing such a thing, and I’m kind of amazed at how much fun I had doing it! A truly memorable experience. But…
I am not going to go into great detail on this surprise at Ashford Castle, because I’ve already written about it at length in my September 20, 2020, blog post entitled Magical Moments: Part II. Please check it out for all the fun details. 😊 Here's a quick link to the post:
Cong, a city in two counties. ☺
Beautiful views on the drive to Westport.
Then we headed to Westport, our next stopover for the night. It was basically a place to sleep as we worked our way up to Northern Ireland.
DAY 11 In the morning, we were up early as we continued our journey north. We made a brief stop a few miles north of Sligo, at St. Columba’s church and graveyard, where poet W.B. Yeats is buried.
It was a long drive to Northern Ireland, and along the way we stopped in Derry. Official name, Londonderry, this is a city with much political, often violent, history. The conflict known as “The Troubles” began in Derry in the 1960s.
The Peace Bridge
There are murals all around Derry, reminders of "The Troubles."
Northern Ireland is part of Great Britain, so we were now in a different country, with different money. Britain never used the Euro, not even before Brexit (they use the pound sterling.)
We eventually got to Portrush, where we spent the next two nights. It is a small seaside resort town on the north coast of County Antrim.
DAY 12 We started our day by visiting the Giant’s Causeway, another spectacular land formation. In
this area there are about 40,000 interlocking basalt columns, the result of an ancient volcanic fissure eruption. We were amazed at the interesting hexagonal-shaped columns and rocks which trail off into the sea.
Next stop, Bushmills Distillery. Touring and tasting at the distillery where they make one of the top-rated Irish whiskeys. This is also a very popular tourist destination. When taste-testing, I didn’t love it, but I have to say I didn’t hate it. 😊
What’s the best follow-up after you’ve been drinking whiskey? Walking the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, 98 feet above the water. LOLs! I held on with both hands and walked across, not looking down.
It spans 66 feet between the mainland and the tiny island of Carrickarede. It’s thought to have been originally built by salmon fisherman 350 years ago; today it’s a fun stop for brave tourists. And thankfully it’s been rebuilt in recent years making it much stronger and more stable than the original.
Once we got to the other side, it started to sprinkle. So, we turned around and went right back. I’m very glad we did because it started to rain heavily, and I would not have wanted to have to make the crossing in the rain. It was scary enough without having to do it on a slippery, wet surface.
On a very full day, our last stop was at the Dunluce Castle. Legend has it that the part of the medieval castle that was the kitchen fell into the sea centuries ago. Now, it’s but a fun ruin to explore.
DAY 13 We began the bus drive back to Dublin in the morning, another long day of travel ahead of us. Our only stop of any length was for lunch in Belfast, home of the shipyard where the RMS Titanic was built, beginning in 1909.
In 2012 a Titanic Museum opened, dedicated to the luxury liner and its single voyage. In 2013 the museum was not yet part of the Rick Steves’ tour. But a deal was struck with those of us who wanted to visit the museum: we would be dropped at the front door of the museum and given 90 minutes to explore.
With nine interactive galleries spread out over 6 floors, it was obvious we wouldn’t see everything. So, we made a mad dash and covered all the territory we could in the time given. It really is a blur to me today what all we saw, and about the only thing I remember is we rode the shipyard ride that simulates what construction life was like while building the Titanic.
And guess what, I didn't have time to stop and take pictures so I have none to show. But I wanted you to see how beautiful the outside of the museum is, so I borrowed the above picture from the Internet. Thank you! ☺ It's located on the spot where the Harland and Wolff shipyard sat, back in the day, when the Titanic was built.
Those who stayed on the bus, which was all but seven of us, got to spend their time in downtown Belfast and eat a more leisurely lunch. Laura abandoned me for the opportunity to take pictures in the downtown.
As you can see, Laura got more pictures of Titanic commemorations downtown than I did at the museum. Go figure!
And then we headed back to Dublin, where we had our final group dinner and said good-bye to our fellow tour members. After traveling together for two weeks, bonds are made, and this final dinner is always bittersweet as we end our time together.
This is the great group I traveled around Ireland with.
When our tour was over, Laura and I flew to London for a few days of travel and exploration on our own. But that’s a journey I’ll save for another time and blog post. 😊
Take care. Stay safe. Happy St. Patrick's Day! Sláinte!
